Under Myrivilis' Mulberry Tree:
Time Stops in Skala Skamias
On the northern coast of Lesbos, there is a port where small fishing boats glide silently: Skala Skamias.
Here, life flows slowly; the sound of the wind, the rhythm of the waves, and the clinking of small tea plates blend together.
And at the heart of this scene stands a mulberry tree — for centuries…
Some call it "Myrivilis' mulberry", others "the story tree".
Stratis Myrivilis and the Story of the Mulberry Tree
Stratis Myrivilis, whose real name is Efstratios Stamatopoulos, was born in 1890 in Skala Sykamineas.
He is one of the most significant Greek writers who penned the human stories of both sides of the Aegean, the wounds of war, and the soul of fishing villages.
Notable works include:
- Vasilis Arvanitis
- Life in the Tomb
- The Mermaid Madonna (Panagia Gorgona)
Legend has it that while living in his house near the beach in Skala Skamias, Myrivilis wrote his works under this mulberry tree's shade.
It still stands in the same place today; its roots stretch out to the sea, and its trunk smells of literature.
"Mouria tou Myrivilis" – The Tavern Under the Mulberry Tree
Located right above the port, the tavern named Η Μουριά του Μυριβήλη (Mouria tou Myrivilis) takes its name from both the mulberry tree and the writer.
As soon as you sit at its table:
- Fishermen mending nets in the harbor
- The distant ringing of a small chapel's bell
- The aroma of freshly cooked calamari
- The sound of a gentle breeze
all come together; this is the spirit of Skala Skamias.
The menu is simple yet characterful:
- Fresh red mullet, sea bream, calamari
- Mussels saganaki with tomato sauce
- Salty graviera cheese
- A glass of ouzo on the side…
The waiters often say the same sentence:
"He wrote here, sir."
Moment When Time Stops in Skala Skamias
As sunset approaches, the colors of the village turn to golden and purple hues.
Fishing boats silently enter the harbor, and the last light filters through the leaves of the mulberry tree.
At that moment, it feels as if Myrivilis is still there; watching the story of the village unfold.
This is not just a village:
It is the memory of the Aegean.
Little Tips for Visitors
- Go early: The tables under the mulberry fill up quickly.
- Make sure to see the Panagia Gorgona Chapel – the place that inspired Myrivilis' famous work.
- Bring a small notebook with you.
- Perhaps at that moment, you will write a few lines as well…
Final Words
Myrivilis once said:
"The wind of the Aegean sometimes brings a story, sometimes a memory."
When you sit in the shade of the mulberry in Skala Skamias, you will understand this.
There is neither past nor future…
Only the sea, the mulberry tree, and you.
And the spirit of literature is still there.