The Valley of Karini and The Story of Theophilos

Midilli’s Hidden Paradise and the Painter in the Plane Tree: Karini Valley and the Story of Theophilos Introduction Located on the Agiasos road on the island of Lesvos, Karini Valley is one of the island’s most captivating spots, not only for its nature but also for the sad and inspiring art history it holds within. While walking among the giant plane trees rising skyward beside the stream, the cool chestnut forests, and the old water mills, the place that affects visitors most is the hollowed-out giant plane tree believed to have been the home of the legendary folk painter Theophilos Hatzimihail. A Life Intertwined with Nature During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Theophilos, who lived in Lesvos and its surroundings, would sometimes take refuge in the serenity of Karini Valley and spend short, impoverished periods there. According to legend, Theophilos made a home for himself in a natural cavity that had formed in the trunk of the valley’s ancient large plane tree, and he slept and awoke inside that tree. By day, he reflected the colors of his soul onto the walls of nearby cafés, tavernas, and mills. Even today, in some wall remnants in Karini, traces of those faded frescoes that are trying to survive the cruelty of time and nature can still be seen. Unfortunately, most of these works left in the open air have vanished under the effects of humidity, sun, and the wear of years. Epics Painted for a Plate of Food Seen in his lifetime not as a great artist but often as an eccentric painter mocked by others, Theophilos was known for wearing the traditional Greek garment, the fustanella. More often than not, he painted on walls in exchange for a plate of hot food or a small payment, creating scenes from history and folk tales with his brush. The themes that once appeared on the walls of the old café in Karini Valley included: • Heroes of the Greek War of Independence • Alexander the Great and ancient Greek legends • Warriors in traditional dress and folk dances • Shared folk stories of Anatolia and Greece (such as Erotokritos) • Scenes from everyday village life Although most of these frescoes have vanished today, visitors wandering through Karini can still see traces of the past on those walls. Tériade’s Discovery and the Door to the World The fact that Theophilos never gained great fame during his lifetime is one of the saddest stories in art history. The person who recognized his true value was the famous Lesvian art critic living in Paris, Stratis Eleftheriadis, known as Tériade. In the 1920s, Tériade returned to Lesvos and, upon seeing Theophilos’s paintings in cafés, realized he was facing a remarkable talent. In order to prevent his works from disappearing, he provided Theophilos with canvases and paints and commissioned many paintings from him. Sadly, Theophilos died in 1934. However, when his works were exhibited in Paris shortly after his death, the European art world discovered his unique style. Thus, Theophilos gained the fame he deserved only after his death. Karini Today Today, Karini Valley is regarded as one of the most romantic and striking natural spots in Lesvos. Visitors can walk beside the stream, rest in the shade of the giant plane trees, and see the famous tree believed to have been Theophilos’s home. Most of the artist’s works are now preserved in the Theophilos Museum in Lesvos. Yet for those who come to Karini, the real museum is the story felt in the midst of nature. As you walk through this valley accompanied by the sound of the stream, it is possible to feel the loneliness and inspiration of Theophilos, who once sat and painted in the very same place. Karini is one of Lesvos’s hidden paradises, transformed into legend by the life of a painter.